This will be a step-by-step guide to take your cylinders off and back on again. For this job you will need the tools as listed:

Obviously it is necessary to remove the exhaust system and the carburetors with the intake manifolds. Last preparation is the removal of the oil line behind the cylinder.

We start with the left cylinder:
To do this, turn the engine either with the bolt in the alternator (clockwise from the front) or turn the rear wheel in fifth gear (I personally prefer the rear wheel, spares you work), first the outlet valve moves down and up again, then the intake valve does the same, outlet again and so on; after the intake valve has moved and is closed (rocking lever is up again), you have TDC (if you've turned the engine in the right direction J), it should be possible to move the valves. I use a little screw driver in the spark plug hole to feel when the piston is coming up

Destruction is done, now there is time to do something useful, at this point in time you can check some things visually.

Take a look into the cylinder, are there still signs of the honing to see, that's good, means the surface can keep the oil for greasing. Clean the cylinder.

Is the piston OK, are the rings broken?

You can check if the valves in the cylinder head close tightly by putting the cylinder head upside down on the table and fill the combustion chamber with gas. In the intake and outlet you can see, if there is moisture running down the valves. Better don't use a lighter for this  :o) . You can clean up the combustion chamber with a rotating brass brush for you drill machine.

Take the plungers/lifters out, check the bottom side, which is running on the camshaft, if there is any pitting. That is most likely and I recommend to change them, otherwise it will destroy the camshaft.

You can't check the camshaft without turning the engine, what I wouldn't recommend. If you take a look into the holes, where the plungers were, you only see the ground circle of the camshaft.

After you have taken off the piston rings (carefully, perhaps you need them later on), cleaned the surfaces from the old gaskets and the oil, you can mount the rings. Mount the three new rings (if one breaks - they are not out of rubber - you have as spare ones the old ones). There are three rings, the lower one is the oil ring and the upper two the compression rings. The middle one is not symmetrical, the little groove has to show to the bottom, the upper compression ring is symmetrical. Bring the rings in a position, where the openings are showing in different directions, 120 degree difference would be perfect. So you will have minimum bypass loss.

Now you can build up the engine again:

DONE (with the left cylinder)

Now you can do the same job on the right cylinder, first search for the TDC for the right cylinder and start the same sequence.

If you have finished both cylinders and reassembled your bike, you can go for a ride for some miles to heat up the whole engine. After that leave it to cool down over night. The next day you can check the torque of the nut by removing the spark plugs, the valve cover and the rocking lever bracket. In my opinion it is not really necessary to check the torque after 600 miles again, but it is not absolutely wrong. Adjust the valves and you are ready to go.

Eric Koch,  1999